Alginate kits.... life-casts and belly moulds.....
Plasters and Mouldmaking ...Life casting kits, alginate moulding kits, statuette- and statue-making etc. ... Our Price: £1.99 Modelling Materials for sale Plaster Of Paris 1kg ...
body moulds and belly casts.... feet and hands moulding and casting
casting plaster: baby hand and foot moulding ...Face Casting & Moulding Alginate & Plaster Kit ... FINE PLASTER OF PARIS CASTING PLASTER 25 kg. £7.99 ...
Impression Moulding Chromatic Alginate - is 4.05KG (9 PACKS) of Chromatic Colour Change Dental Alginate ... 4 x 10kg of plaster..... Alginate. ...
Alginate 454g. £5.99. AD2037. Buy 5 Or More. £4.99. 002003. Fine Casting Plaster 1kg. £1.75. . Fine Casting Plaster 2.5kg ..Largest Range, Free Advice
Alginate moulding powder and casting plaster replacement powder for ...Alginate moulding powder and casting plaster replacement powder for all our casting ... Baby -N- Me, Kids Hands and
Life casting kits and alginate moulding kits to create keepsake ...Life casting kits and alginate moulding kits to create keepsake statues of hands and ... Casting Plaster - 50 lb.(22.70 kg) bag. Casting Plaster - 50 lb. ...
Moulding:... Moulding -Casting Plaster 2.5KG, Wax for Candles - 1KG - 2.5KG, and - all at low prices.
Life casting kits and alginate moulding kits to create keepsake ...(2 kg) box. Alginate moulding powder. This is a safe moulding compound that duplicates every detail of any hand, foot or of almost any other object. Price: ...
Moulding and Casting Materials All prices exclude VAT. On This Page : Liquid Moulding Latex, Plaster, Mod Roc, Art-Mache, ... Moulding Alginate. For moulding complete objects. ...
Green & Stone Art MaterialsAll prices are UK pounds and include VAT. [Listed in green] ... Gedeo Silicone Moulding paste, Alginate, Resin Plaster and Crystal Resin, Rubber latex ...
MARAGON - ARTS & CRAFTS
MARAGON - ARTS & CRAFTS
Casting, Moulding & Modelling - Materials & Kits
Casting, Moulding & Modelling - Materials & Kits
Plaster-of-Paris Hand & Footprint Moulding
Plastercraft can be quite messy, so put masses of newspaper down on the floor (plastic sheeting can be
rather slippy), and have all the right tools to hand. Never put plaster (set or unset) down the drain as it will
cause a blockage, so if you are cleaning utensils as you go along, wash them in a bucket, and then throw
the waste-water into the garden - or wait until the plaster has thoroughly set, crack it off and put the
fragments in the bin. Use plastic utensils throughout if you can because cleaning-up will be that much
You will need about 400g of plaster to make a 3 or 4 month-old baby's foot imprint in a dish/plate of about
35mm deep and 100x150mm, or a circular mould of about 140mm diameter of the same depth. An adult
hand will need about a kilogram of plaster in a 300mm circular dish, etc. but draw an outline of the foot, etc.
on a piece of paper so that you can see what proportions the print will have before deciding on the frame
shape and size - for example, you can emphasize the tininess of a baby's foot by using a comparatively
You should use a slightly stronger mix than you would normally use for an ordinary flow-cast, so reckon on
500ml of water for each 1kg of plaster used, and do all the weighing with a set of kitchen scales; use a
plastic jug or bowl in preference to glass, ceramic or metal. You will also need a mixing tool (a table knife is
fine, but spoons can clog up). It's a good idea to have a trial run with, say, 100g of plaster in a plastic cup
to watch the stages the plaster goes through after mixing.
Rather than pouring the plaster directly into a final frame, you may find it easier to work with a temporary
mould of the right size - or slightly larger, then cut it to the right shape and size later. Of course, you may
wish to leave the mould 'as-cast', but in any case, use cling-film or a bin-liner, etc. to prevent the plaster
sticking to any temporary framework, etc.
To prevent the foot or hand sinking in and leaving little-or-no plaster beneath it, it's usually best to make a
4 - 5mm plaster bed in the mould dish or box first; this bed will also make it much easier to keep the
foot/hand stable and at the right depth. The fixing/hanging device (string, hook, etc.) can be embedded at
this stage, or a hole can be drilled all the way through once the whole mould is finished. When this
bed-layer has set (about an 30 minutes), mix up enough plaster for the main mould. For both stages - or
whether you decide to dispense with an initial bed layer - follow these general instructions for mixing casting
1. Measure out the right amount of water in a calibrated jug; use tap water only. Use a clean container that
will hold around 5x the volume of water used, to ensure plenty of space for mixing the paste.
2. Weigh out the required amount of plaster; break up any clumps in the powder at this stage.
3. Gently sprinkle the plaster into the water and allow the material to sink.
4. After adding all the plaster, allow two minutes for the powder to properly soak.
5. Mix slowly and firmly using strokes of the stirring tool that limit any air entrainment, i.e. avoid any
beating or dropping action;
6. The consistency of the mix should be creamy and even, with no bubbles or swellings under the surface,
and no free water on top or at the sides of the mix; make certain that there has been no clumping in the
corner of the bucket, etc. Gentle tapping will help to bring any air bubbles to the surface.
7. Allow the mixture to stand for a minute or so, then pour out the mixture gently, and as near as possible
to the mould frame to avoid splashing and air entrainment. Again, if feasible, gentle tapping of the mould
will release air bubbles.
Younger subjects are not particularly co-operative, so work in comfort on or near the floor, with some toys
or other distraction to hand. An assistant will make the whole process much easier. Make sure the foot/hand
is clean, with no lint between fingers/toes. (You do not any baby oil or Vaseline etc. for making a mould
from naked skin, although you would if there was strong hair growth or fabrics involved, etc.)
Imprints and impressions are notoriously susceptible to surface bubbles, which are usually due to air
entrainment at the mixing stage - so tap the mixing container to release any air bubbles before pouring.
Scrape the sides of the container to get any dry material mixed in as well.
Now pour the plaster for the main mould on top of the bed-layer. Clear any obvious bubbles. Fresh, liquid
plaster sets more quickly when it comes into contact with recently-set plaster and - depending on temperature
etc. - at about 6 - 8 minutes it will start to thicken. This is the ideal time to make the impression - if you
press the foot or hand any earlier than this, the plaster is still very liquid and you will have much longer to
wait before the plaster sets. Always ensuring that fingers or toes don’t plunge in so deep that the set plaster
traps them, press the foot or hand in very slowly down on to the bed-layer, but make sure it doesn't wriggle
from side to side. Ideally it should be left/kept absolutely still for 6 - 7 minutes before being very gently
eased free. Clean up all the tools, etc, as soon as possible.
Place the mould under cover where it won't be disturbed, with lots of air around it. Leave the mould for a day
or so before cutting it to shape (with a fret-saw, etc); Plaster strengthens considerably during the first 24
hours so don't leave it too long before shaping it. Leave the piece another 48 hours if you want to decorate
For outdoor work and ‘pavement’ imprints and impressions, use Cassini’s plaster; it has a slightly softer,
‘footprint-in-soft-mud’ effect, and can be left as-cast (stone-white) or painted.